Monday, June 22, 2009

Roadblocks and Ruins: Adventures in Peru

By: Tamar Glouberman

When Brian asked me to price out flights to Lima, I was pretty excited. After all, who wouldn’t want their boss to send them on a last minute trip to Peru? Especially when the trip involves trekking the little-known Salkantay Trail, which passes by spectacular glaciers, emerald green lakes, and cloud forests on the way to Peru’s most famous sight: Machu Picchu. But I’d be lying if I said a small part of me wasn’t disheartened. You see, the first trip I worked for ROAM began with a rappel down a 100’ waterfall, and that was only the beginning of the excitement. In my trips and years that followed at ROAM I often experienced a lack of sleep and a lack of showers, but never a lack of adventure. Now I was faced with a trip that would entail several days of walking interrupted by stays at luxury backcountry lodges. A nice vacation definitely, but a ROAM style adventure? I wasn’t sure. It all seemed so easy. Was ROAM getting too soft?

I needn’t have worried.

I arrived in Cusco on a Sunday, and was contacted by Miguel, our Peruvian guide, who informed me the farmers in the Sacred Valley were planning a strike. He said if we left early Monday morning – after the guests had arrived – we’d have time to see most of the sights on the itinerary for that day, plus squeeze in a visit to the ruins of Ollyantaytambo. We’d then spend Tuesday close to the hotel and by Wednesday, the strike would be over, allowing us to return to Cusco before starting our trek on Thursday morning. The plan seemed simple enough.

Monday morning: the plane the guests were booked on was canceled.

When they arrived, several hours late, we hit the road and saw some great stuff, but we were too late to drive to Ollyantaytambo. So, after the strike began on Tuesday morning, we walked there. The 8 km stroll proved to be an interesting way to see the Sacred Valley, as well as a good introductory lesson in rustic road block construction. Ollyantaytambo is a pretty little town, and the surrounding ruins were almost deserted due to the strike. Walking back to the hotel late that afternoon, we marveled at how much the roadblocks had grown, and wondered how they would be cleared by the next morning.

They weren’t. However, we were told the roads would probably be cleared by the afternoon. We went for a hike.

When we returned, the roads were still blocked. We enjoyed a leisurely late-lunch. Later, after the guests had left the dining room, Miguel and I had a chat. Phone calls ensued. By nightfall, Hector arrived. Hector is a driver who won’t soon be forgotten. He made our soccer-mom-style mini-van seem like the Batmobile. As we snuck through alleys with the headlights off, I wondered if, perhaps, I’d been overly insistent on leaving. Perhaps another night at our luxurious and safe hotel wouldn’t have been such a bad option. But soon, we were caught up in the excitement of last second swerving around rock piles. We crossed a bridge mainly used for pedestrians, barely fitting under the maximum height bar, and blatantly pretending not to notice the maximum weight sign.

We twisted our way up unpaved mountain roads, stopping for the rare vehicle traveling in the opposite direction, so that the drivers could inform each other of what was in store. We met a frantic family – strikers had hurled rocks at their car. They warned us not to continue, but we did, assuring them they would encounter no such problems going the other way. We passed through the area they had warned us about without incident and continued on for quite a distance, until we arrived at a roadblock that couldn’t be swerved around. In seconds we were out of the van, enthusiastically rolling boulders. I should add that, based on what little information we had, we actually agreed with the farmers - who recently lost their rights to free water - but sometimes, the excitement of adventure gets in the way of politics. Then we heard voices. People were yelling at us from the shadows. My knowledge of the Quechua language consists of less than a dozen words, but even I could tell they were threatening us. We quickly piled back into the van, having cleared enough rocks for Hector to navigate through. The yelling continued. Hector stopped and stuck his head out the window. I don’t know what he said, but the yelling ceased and no rocks were thrown.

The following day we trekked to the first lodge. As the views changed from the patchwork of farmlands to the glaciers of Humantay and Salkantay, we saw the lodge nestled in a beautiful valley. The staff greeted us with mugs of coca tea. Locals say the tea helps with altitude sickness. I don’t know whether or not that’s true, but we all drank it and no one got sick. After our tea we had a lesson in Pisco Sour making. It’s the most popular cocktail in Peru and that combined with a hot tub and the high altitude can make stiff muscles, or most any other problem, quickly disappear.

We were at 12 700’. The plan was to spend two nights at that lodge adjusting to the altitude. During our acclimatization period we hiked to a beautiful turquoise lake at the foot of the Humantay Glacier. From there we left the trail behind, hiking up to a nearby ridge with an incredible view. I’ve been spoiled in my life when it comes to beautiful alpine scenery, but I was still awed by the rugged splendor that surrounded us.

We rose early the next morning. I don’t know how many hours it took, but it seemed like every turn was more beautiful. We came around a corner and Miguel pointed up the trail to the left, where we could see almost to the highest point. He then suggested we hike up to our right. Always ready for a bit of off-trail adventure, we agreed. After a steep climb and a scramble along the rather sharp ridgeline we reached a point where we could see the main trail again, which was when we realized we were looking down at the highest point on the pass. After all the worry about getting to 15,300’, we’d surpassed it without even realizing it. We built celebrational cairns and took photos until some bad weather started closing in on us. There’s something great about being high up in the Andes, off the trail, and being sleeted on. I’ve never seen or read Alive, but I still found myself thinking about it.

We made it down to the trail, took some photos at a sign marking the altitude and started back down. An hour later, we were happily eating wine-poached pears by the side of the trail.

The following days took us through several incredible bio-zones. Along the way we heard of another strike being planned. We were told it wouldn’t affect us and we carried on. On the last day of the trek, we hiked the Llactapata Trail. From a high point on the trail we caught our first glimpse of Machu Picchu – it was incredible. After that our plan was to hike to the valley and take a half hour train ride to Aguas Caliente - the town at the base of Machu Picchu. We were enjoying a leisurely descent down the steep mountainside, when Freddy, the assistant chef, met us with news: the strike was starting a day early. The train would not be running. We’d have to walk the rest of the way. We picked up the pace.

During the trip, Jeff, Tammy, Louise and I had spoken about how great it was to trek the Salkantay Trail as opposed to the Inca Trail. The Salkantay has a broader range of scenery, gets you higher up, and while 500 people a day start off on the Inca Trail, on the Salkantay we only saw a handful of other trekkers. To us, the only advantage of the Inca Trail, was the fact that you could walk right to Machu Picchu, instead of having to take a train for the last leg. And now here we were walking to Aguas Caliente - not quite Machu Picchu, but close enough. We arrived in the dark, with tired feet and grinning faces.

Machu Picchu was more incredible than I ever expected. It was relatively quiet due to the strike and we got to hike Waynapichu – the mountain that looms over Machu Picchu. It’s a special hike; up steep stairs the Incas built hundreds of years ago –long before there was any kind of building code regulating stair height. As I took in the spectacular view, it occurred to me and that even with trailside poached pears and nightly chocolates on our pillows, this ROAM trip had once again proved to be a real adventure.

To see a photo album of this trip, click here

Other Recent ROAM Trips In Brief

This Spring saw several exciting trips to Ecuador and the Galapagos; lots of good biking, hiking, surfing and snorkeling with sea lions, turtles and sharks. Brian led ROAM’s inaugural Route of the Sun trip along Ecuador’s coast. Many of the participants say they enjoyed it even more than the Galapagos. I haven’t done that exact trip, but I did love spending time on the Ecuador coast; people are friendly and the combination of warm water, beach breaks and no crowds, makes for a great place to learn to surf.

The river trip season is off to a good start: everyone had a great time on the year’s first Chilko trip. Due to high water, our regular take-out no longer had an eddy, so Brian found a new take-out. This new spot led to Mark practicing his row-like-hell skills (luckily after so many Klinaklini trips those skills are solid), and to Brian practicing his backing-a-heavy-trailer-down-a-steep-hill-in-a-full-skid skills (those skills also proved to be solid as ever.)
As I write this we have trips out on the Firth and a Chilko and there are a whole variety of trips planned for the summer, so check back here soon for more ROAM news.

Friday, January 30, 2009

New trips in Central and South America

Greetings from a very snowy British Columbia. As I dig out my truck to get to the ski hill, one cannot help think about warmer climates.

I truly love this winter wonderland but you didn't see Bing Crosby doing any snow shoveling in "White Christmas" did you?

As a member of ROAM and The Lodge's on-line community, below are some trips that we are offering before many are posted to the website:



Route of The Sun (West Coast of Ecuador)

This new exploration visits rural coastlines, national parks, haciendas, and eco-lodges. Surfing (for beginners or expert), hiking, riding and snorkeling compliment a number of archaeological sites and cultural visits. For some this will be the ultimate surfing safari while non-surfers will have plenty of adventure and cultural visits. Our inaugural trip has already sold out so we have added another (May 2-10 departure).

This trip will take participants to Chirije, where ROAM is in the process of partnering to develop a traditional "safari-style" lodge on the shores of the Pacific. Complete with it's own Smithsonian Archaeological dig, Chirije is an amazing place only accessed at low tide yet close enough to service all the great surfing spots, including our very own beach break.

The West Coast of Ecuador is little traveled an reminds me of Mexico 30 years ago before tourism exploded. Exploded, is not a word often associated with positive things unless, I suppose, you are reading porn or swinging at a pinata. Nonetheless, I think the friendly people of Manabi Province will be well-suited for tourism and I hope they learn from others mistakes. The area is charming and laid back as many visitors never make it this far west. A coastal visit magnificently contrasts the Andes and it is simply a matter of time before the coast is "found". The word "found" in itself suggests it needed to be, and in this case, I am not so sure they did.

Baja Multisport
This lodge-to-lodge trip is an off-the-beaten-path adventure that visits both the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean coastlines. Participants experience Baja’s stark geography and world famous biodiversity through a multitude of outdoor adventures such as hiking, sea kayaking, surfing and snorkeling. There are also some cultural town visits and options for diving, fishing and horseback riding.

Spring & Fall 2009 April 5- 11, 12-18, Sept 6-12, Oct 11-17, Nov 22-28, Dec 20-26, Dec 26 – 1 Jan, 2010 $2995 per person

Our trip focuses on some of the quieter areas of the peninsula while maintaining a high quality of experience with outstanding lodging. The trip fits perfectly into a business week and is easily accessed from most North American cities.

The Sea of Cortez is a phenomenal place to kayak and hike. The weather is outstanding and the people friendly. Our surfing options are suitable for all ability levels and the snorkeling is superb. As on all ROAM trips, there are many optional available for those who might not wish to participate in a specific event.

Galapagos Multisport - Now Available Year round!
The most adventurous way to see Galapagos just got better. From March 1st, 2009 and beyond we are offering weekly departures to this incredible destination. Guests can book as individuals or you can charter the catamaran for your own group.

We only require two travelers to guarantee the departure (outside of 90 days) so you can focus on planning for snorkeling, biking, hiking, kayaking, riding and even surfing your way through the archipelago. Be careful when you price compare as our trips are for small groups (no waiting), include sailing, meals, all the activities, full-time naturalist guide, round trip airfare from Quito to islands and even your hotel in Quito before and after the trip.

In these economic times, we are seeing a number of blow out cruise deals popping up on the internet. Blow -out falls into the same category of "explode". These deals are usually on cruise ships or GAP trips with hordes of people and do not include any of the great side trips we do.

On Isabela, for example, the most spectacular site to visit is the Tunnels. A crazy labyrinth of lava arches connected by snorkel routes, the "Tunnels" can only be accessed by panga.
Evenings on the cat are spent lounging on the back deck while rays, sea lions and all manner of bird life entertain us just feet away. Many times, while sailing, we are joined by a school of dolphin so we drop sail and go swimming with them. You cannot do that on a cruise ship unless you evoke the "man overboard drill".

Who ever you travel with, make sure you are going to the right places in Galapagos rather than following the crowds. It's a truly inspirational place and worth the investment to visit.

Monday, December 1, 2008

Snowsports

By popular demand, ROAM is adding a number of ski and snowboard packages into our quiver of trips. Our head office is surrounded by incredible ski terrain, so it seems like a natural thing to do. Trips range from reasonably priced getaways to ridiculously decadent affairs for 2010 and beyond...

Red, White and Blue:
Enjoy 3 days of interior British Columbia’s best lift-serviced powder skiing at Nelson’s Whitewater Ski Area and Rossland’s Red Mountain followed by a 4th day challenging your skills with a glorious day of cat skiing.
Price: $1295 based on double occupancy, Nelson, BC

H2Snow
Join long-time ROAM trip leader guide, Mark Trueman for an introductory day at Nelson’s Whitewater ski area followed by 3 days of cat skiing our fresh interior champagne powder.
Price: $2595 from Spokane, Washington or Cranbrook, BC

Northern BC Heli-Skiing - Feb 27 to March 2, 2009
Join ROAM founder, Brian McCutcheon for three outrageous days of powder skiing in Northern B.C.”s snow zone. With annual falls often exceeding, 100 feet, our late February trip will be guaranteed exciting skiing. 7-passenger Koala helicopters will whisk around and three days of skiing guarantees 43,000 vertical feet.
Price: $4700 plus taxes from Vancouver, BC

Heli-Ski Chilko Lake (2010)
Some of you may have lost this much in a week of bad trading so why not indulge in a venture that generates fond memories! Arguably Canada’s most decadent and adventurous skiing experience, groups of up to 8 skiers will enjoy a week of heli-skiing based out of our luxurious Lodge at Chilko Lake. Each morning you will be whisked from our front lawn to ski in the Pantheon Ranges just west of Chilko Lake. This is some of the country’s best terrain and is available on an exclusive charter basis only through ROAM.
Price: $130,000 plus tax from Vancouver (for 8 skiers)


Adventure By Design
Join the growing numbers of happy customers and have ROAM customize your next adventure, family reunion, holiday or corporate retreat. In just the last week we’ve customized trips to Peru, Africa, BC and Utah. Call Brian for a free consultation and take advantage of our connections and longevity in the business.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Latin America Specials

I hate to use the blog as a place to promote specials. That being said, the U.S. Thanksgiving is looming and I need to let people know what's going on. I am virtually brain-dead from this past season (actually it's more from listeneing to the never-ending primaries and then the election) and our web designer, Tony, is about three weeks behind on producing an e-flyer. With my apologies taken care of in advance, we really do have some exciting stuff ahead for this winter...

Galapagos
Now with two catamarans ROAM-ing the archipelago, we have twice as many ways to serve you. Both vessels visit multiple islands and National Park sites and our trip pricing includes pre and post hotels in Quito as well as airfare to the islands. Our 50-foot, 8 passenger, cat is operating the port-to-port multisport adventures while the spacious 88-footer sleeps 12 guests and offers a remote naturalist sailing with 2 daily landings for hiking and snorkeling. There are only a few spaces left in February and one trip reamaining in March

Last minute space
4 spaces on Naturalist sailing – Feb 7th
1 space on Multisport – Feb 14th
2 spaces on Multisport – Feb 21st
10 spaces on Naturalist sailing March 7th

Ecuador Multi-sport
A fantastic multi-sport adventure on its own, this trip dovetails perfectly with our Galapagos sailings. Visit volcanoes, glaciers, tropical forests and jungle all in one exciting week of adventure. Mountain bike, hike, river raft, horseback ride and trek through a cultural odyssey of environments knowing you’ll be staying in hip haciendas and cool jungle lodges at day’s end.

Ecuador West Coast Exploratory
Join Brian McCutcheon for an exploratory trip of the West Coast of Ecuador. Flying from Quito to Manta we will hike, bike, ride, snorkel and surf (no experience required) our way around the coast as we put together new programs and investigate ROAM’s potential purchase of a 500-acre beachfront property and eco-lodge.

April 25 – May 03, 2009
Call Brian toll free at 888 639 1114 for details

Peru
Rated as the best ROAM trip ever by a number of reliable, if not slightly crazy (according to trip reports) past guests, our Peru expedition incorporates the only trans- Andean lodge-to-lodge trek to Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley and a unique sea kayaking adventure on Lake Titicaca. Next launch May 17, 2009. Contact Brian for the details and get your space on this 12-person trip. Or let us customize your own adventure

Monday, March 3, 2008

Roger's Waters


This past June we had the pleasure of hosting Roger Waters and his production manager, Trip (aptly named), for 3 glorious days of trout fishing on the Chilko River. A legendary rock celebrity from the band, Pink Floyd, Roger arrived by A-Star helicopter after his concert in Vancouver. I am not the type to be star-struck but was the first to admit it was all quite surreal - as my favourite song as a youth was "Wish You Were Here".

(For the record, and contrary to rumour, I did not try and force Roger to listen to my acoustic version! I felt his three refusals and threats of a restraining order were a good indication that he was reluctant to hear it).

If you have ever seen Pink Floyd or Mr. Waters in concert, you will know that they are polished and well prepared. This fishing trip was no exception. They sent up a float plane in advance for us to hop from lake to lake to cast lines and check productivity.

We had a crew of experienced guides at their disposal: Avid fisherman and Blackcomb Helicopter founder, Steve Flynn, was the lead reconnaissance and pilot/guide, Peter Nori, was the helicopter pilot extraordinaire. Local knowledge and boat handling was provided by myself and Clint Goyette of Valley Fishing Guides.

Our guests had requested peace and quiet and reserved the entire lodge accordingly. Chef Rebecca, who has cooked in Europe for many dignitaries was up to the task of orchestrating fine dining and we had our sommelier, Andy Butler, sourcing out the finest wines he could muster out of Vancouver.

Roger Waters is an accomplished fly caster and has fished throughout the world. At this time in June, most of the province was washed out (flooding) but the Chilko has the unique distinction of being B.C.'s clearest drainage and the cerulean blue waters did not disappoint. The fishing was not outstanding but good, and our guests were pleased.

The real highlight for me was listening to Roger tell stories about his 40 years in the music industry. He was charming to our staff and thanked each and everyone personally on his departure. To be candid, I hadn't heard much about Mr. Waters over the years but perhaps him being so friendly and gracious doesn't make for much in the way of People Magazine fodder?

I also realized that celebrities must love traveling to places like The Lodge at Chilko so they can just be themselves. They can spend time with their colleagues and friends and not have a camera stuck in their face.

In a way, we are as remote as "The Dark Side of the Moon". But our service is better.













Thursday, November 29, 2007

The "New" Lodge at Chilko Lake

ROAM is very pleased to announce our newest development at Chilko Lake.

A joint venture between ROAM and the philanthropic Huston family, the new "Lodge at Chilko Lake" is based out of an upscale private residence perched above Chilko Lake and the Chilko River















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A one-hour plane ride north of Vancouver or Whistler, British Columbia, “The Lodge” is a formidable log structure with 3 luxurious suites and 5 deluxe timber frame cabins. Arguably one of British Columbia’s most spectacular settings, the lodge serves as an adventure outpost for a variety of world-class activities.






Chilko Lake, the prize jewel of B.C.’s T’sy-los Provincial Park, is in an incredible protected wilderness spanning the circumference of the 55-mile long lake. Hiking trails and mountain biking opportunities abound. This, combined with horseback riding, fishing, sea kayaking, canoeing and rock climbing makes for an unforgettable setting in a wilderness few rarely see.




For rafting enthusiasts, there are two levels of river adventures available. Lodge guests can challenge “Lava Canyon” which offers the longest stretch of commercially navigable whitewater in North America, while others may opt for an exhilarating but family-friendly stretch of rapids flowing 21 miles right from the head of the lake. This stretch is also available by drift boat and can be run late into the autumn to view grizzlies, salmon and bald eagles.





The access to Lava Canyon is extremely remote so we use a vintage 6-wheel-drive military vehicle to locate our gear. However, at the day’s end, our guests get whisked back to the hot tub by helicopter. On the upper section we use a custom-designed drift boat that is ideal for watching bears feed on the two million returning salmon

The Chilko River has been given special classification in recognition of its world-class rainbow trout fishing. Guests can fish with experienced regional guides or on their own. At the headwaters, they can launch float tubes or simply wade out into the river’s clear shallow waters. The lodge is equipped with state of the art Koffler boats and top quality fishing equipment is available to guests not wishing to bring their own.

For those interested in relaxing along with adventure, you’ll be pleased to know The Lodge has an on-site yoga instructor along with a massage therapist. Special “yoga & spa” weeks are also offered where instructors lead morning and afternoon sessions and massage therapists and acupuncture experts provide relief to tired muscles from the day’s activities. Getting a massage while watching bears catch salmon is one of our outrageous experiences you don’t get at a traditional spa.

For the epicureans, The Lodge is also a stop on a popular Wine on the River Series and in 2008 will feature cooking classes with renowned Vancouver chef, Rebecca Dawson. Ms. Dawson was better known for developing menus for the Rain Tree Restaurant in Vancouver and spent years working in Europe for the presidents of Disney and Northwest Airlines. True to its roots, in the Chilcotin no one ever eats alone as the lodge serves up extravagant family style dining in its spectacular dining room with breathtaking views.

The success of this new luxury facility is predicated on being proximal to Vancouver and Whistler but offering a completely private and exclusive experience. Previously an invitation-only private facility, The Huston's have opened up their incredible complex to ROAM guests. To access the lodge, guests can fly in on scheduled charter flights to our airstrip or utilize float plane service from downtown Vancouver or Whistler. The lodge has access to thousands upon thousands of acres of crown land and the park region making the adventure opportunities limitless.


The multi-million dollar development is well timed to take advantage of the growing interest we are seeing in British Columbia. This facility is one of the finest in Western Canada and has been completed with plenty of time for the Winter Olympics arrive to Vancouver. Unlike the rapid expansion and construction going on at Whistler, the Chilcotin countryside has not changed here since it was first plotted on a map so we are enjoying it just the way it is.

holiday@chilkolake.com

Friday, May 11, 2007

Adventure via Cyberspace

After a glorious 6-year marketing stint for the legendary pioneer of river rafting, George Wendt (of O.A.R.S. fame), I have returned to the ROAM office full-time. The reality that I no longer have a plethora of talented support crew has truly sunk in. However, being lean and mean certainly does have its advantages. And besides, with Jennifer (my lovely wife of 16 years) doing all of our books now, I am under the greatest scrutiny ever when it comes to purchasing.

Our recent e-flyer has gone out through cyberspace marking an interesting era. Perhaps calling it an experiment would be a better description – an experiment we are going to watch closely. ROAM has decided to go completely electronic with our marketing and administrative materials. The main reason is the environment. Our responsible travel policy is quite simple. When you book on-line with ROAM we plant a tree at the head of Chilko Lake in your honor. No carbon offset calculations or credits, just oxygen producing green space.

The second reason is efficiency. This first e-flyer has reached 9000 of our past travelers with the click of a mouse. Yes, we still have the dilemma of figuring out how to reach those other 30,000 clients on our mailing list but we are crawling before we walk. And yes, we may need to succumb to an email gathering re-activation mailing but for the most part we are a paperless work place. As of 2007, all ROAM and The Lodge at Chilko Lake trips can be booked 24/7 on-line with live availability.

Ultimately, all this electronic automation is about keeping trip costs down and providing instant access to information. Adventure travel, especially to remote places, is not an inexpensive hobby. With rising fuel costs and the use of helicopters and bush planes to distant locales, ROAM trips are never going be for the masses. Instead we will continue to serve a small group of extraordinary people who recognize the value of a wilderness experience.

Nonetheless, simple things like not producing monster catalogs are a start. Sure enough, the environment is on everyone’s consciousness but in practice it is often another matter. Already after our first email blast, we are getting catalog requests. There's no escaping it. Perusing a coffee table catalog with a glass of your favorite Cabernet has been a rite of passage. While in turn, those responsible for producing these massive catalogs have darkly intuited how easily their readers might be turned into prey by photographs whose power insulted the intelligence and contravened any notions of free will: exotic scenes with clear skies. Readers who would have been capable of scepticism and prudence in other areas of their lives reverted back in contact with these elements to a primordial innocence and optimism. Ahhh…the good old days when marketing was just simple emotion evoking trickery.

An unnamed luxury biking company I once worked for spent in excess of 2 million dollars publishing and delivering their show-piece catalog. It was so attractive you were reluctant to thumb through its pages. Well if you consider they do about 5000 travelers a year, you can figure whom the cost is being passed off to. Back to my point. What was my point? …

Our move to electronic marketing is not self-righteous but rather practical and appropriate for ROAM. E-marketing, for the time being, provides us a viable and environmentally friendly solution. It gets you the most current information and keeps trips costs down.

That is until AOL’s (or “the like”) spam filters clog all access except through their pay per click ads. Until then, please “opt in” and we’ll keep you posted.