I ROAM the World a.k.a. The ROAM RANT

ROAM is no ugly duckling....or are we?

2011-10-18T17:53:00.000-07:00

Recently we became part of a really cool travel network called My Little Swans. Started by Katrina Garnett as an outflow from requests for information on her personal travel experiences, this is an eclectic collection of top quality, albeit small, travel outfitters who provide personalized travel experiences.

As part of this process, I was asked to summarize what ROAM was all about and why we were different than the other gazillion internet-based companies out on the world-wide web. It's funny to imagine me at a loss for words but I had to pause and ponder. Below is an excerpt of what I said...

ROAM is a small boutique adventure company that I started back in the late 80's. Everyone else was going clubbing to cheesy 80's music and I was planning remote expeditions to all corners of the earth to get my kicks. Some things will never change but our trips have become significantly more service-oriented since I started. We have however maintained our small group size and personalized attention. I also think we bring sensibility and accountability to the equation without stifling the adventure.

Sadly (because I am a better guide than marketer) we are not a household name for adventure but we have operated trips for Butterfield & Robinson, Mountain Travel Sobek, Off the Beaten Path Adventures, OARS, Natural Habitat, Nimmo Bay Resort and a number of other large companies over the years. Now that we are long-established, more than 70% of our clients have traveled 3 times or more while another 20% have traveled with us more than 10 times! Half of our business comes from custom trips and organizing family vacations that no one will forget. (see, happy family to the right)

Although we started out offering outrageous expeditions we have always prided ourselves on amazing culinary experiences, eclectic wine selections and great service-oriented guide staff. I always tell people that I was never famous, good looking or rich so I had to rely on amazing food, great gear and friendly demeanor. Some might argue that over the years, friendly demeanor has morphed into blatant sarcasm, but we still have amazing food and gear!

Oddly, the fastest growing segment of our trips are lodge-based adventures or what we often refer to as "multisports". I suppose a multisport can be camping-based (and lord knows we have tried to sell them) but most people prefer "adventure by day and luxury by night". The luxurious components of our trips does not take away or diminish the quality of the daily adventures. These are authentic experiences ranging from swimming with sea lions, to watching grizzlies teach their young, to rappelling down waterfalls to access exciting stretches of whitewater. We just have remote adventure lodges exclusively for our guests' use :)

The Lodge at Chilko for example, is a 10-million dollar private guest ranch built completely off-the-grid at the north end of Tyslos Park. A little known gem, just an hour flight from Vancouver BC, the park includes the 55-mile long Chilko Lake which is surrounded by 10,000 foot peaks and no roads or infrastructure. Our main lodge is where we dine and most of the socializing occurs but guests are outfitted in decadent 1 or 2 bedroom chalets with vaulted ceilings, stunning views and most importantly, privacy. From here we raft, kayak, wildlife view, bike, hike, heli hike, fish (both spin and world-class fly fishing) as well as horseback ride, ATV and boat on the main lake. The Lodge can sleep a group of 28 but we only take 12 guests at a time so you can pick and choose your own itinerary. I think you can get the picture...

Anyways, we have a nice website (albeit a bit utilitarian) www.iroamtheworld.com and I always speak to people directly about any of our trips. People often ask me what my favourite trip is and I have a stock answer stating whatever one I am on. However, for My Little Swans they were not taking "no" or any diversion for an answer. Subsequently, my top three suggestions are as follows:

The Lodge at Chilko Multisport as it appeals to all ages and abilities. Our Patagonia Multisport for similar reasons then add Argentine wines and beef, and if they want a mind-blowing Alaska trip (Alaska is a crowd favorite for Americans) try the Tatshenshini River Expedition through the world's largest protected wilderness. It's camping-based and rugged but we have done multi-generational trips-of-a-lifetime there. Dining while glaciers calve into the river and enjoying scotch with 10,000 year old ice is pretty decadent no matter where you have traveled.

Our Own African Crisis

2011-07-30T09:42:00.000-07:00

African Safaris (cheap and cheesy or well-planned and extravagant)

As the US struggles with its own budget shortfalls and the "Obama buck" plummets further against international currency, many people are being faced with the same choices the government is needing to make. Unfortunately for us, the travel industry, is often an indicator species for the global economy.

Our industry has been in flux since the early problems evolved in the stock market. Like the Bear Stearns collapse, the travel sector led the way for North America as travel, surprisingly to me, is one of the first things people cut back on. At the same time and for different reasons, the Internet has commoditized the travel market to a certain degree. Itineraries, at a glance, look similar and it becomes challenging to differentiate one's offering.

African Crisis

Never has this been more apparent to me as I received a barrage of email offers last week from a reputable travel outfitter offering a Zambezi trip for almost half the price of ROAM's adventure. Imagine my surprise when I see a company touting a trip to Africa on the same river for $2555 just weeks after I paired down our Zambezi trip from $5995 to $4700! Wow what a deal... at first...

Lets look at the facts:

Trip length
Upon closer examination I see they are doing an 8 day trip, not 11 days. Always read the itineraries carefully to see what IS and IS NOT included.

Who are these people?

There are many different rafting companies operating on the Zambezi. When I first scouted the Zambezi, I went with a price-point outfitter and found out later (the hard way, sort of) they were re-filling water bottles from the river because they ran out of bottled water and did not carry an "expensive" filter. It was a great weight loss experience for me and I learned firsthand what they mean when from the old quote "there's sick, then there's Africa sick". An experience yes, but not something I recommend.

Hotels.
ROAM uses classic colonial places like the Victoria Falls Hotel and Stanley Livingstone. You can also go even further upscale to places like the Royal Livingstone. Consolidators or wholesalers offering lower priced trips (or promoting those who pay the highest commission), will often cut corners by using mediocre and less expensive properties (well away from the falls). These packages are geared for partiers and backpackers looking for the down and dirty experience. Been there, done that, decades ago.

Now, it is my philosophy that you traveled half way across the world to experience Africa so you should visit properties which represent the best value for money, not necessarily the cheapest. There's certainly nothing wrong with lesser-quality hotels when crashing near an airport but when you have traveled all that way, it seems sensible to get a nicer experience.

Experience
Make sure your trip will have a tour host who has been there before. If they have not, this is what we call "a familiarization trip" - something we do at ROAM before taking clients. At ROAM we do offer a few first descents (and we let people know this upfront) but we never send a client on a trip we have not scouted ourselves. In fact, that is my favorite part of owning the company :)

Safari Lodges
Lastly, not all "safari experiences" are the same. The ROAM Zambezi trip flies into remote safari camps like Makalolo or Somalisa, complete with luxurious tents, gourmet food, world-class guides for a totally intimate experience. Others travel by vehicle to Botswana to stay in cheap public campsites and label it as "being on safari". These are significantly different experiences.

Yes, we at ROAM understand the world economy is in the tank but we hope that we can continue to offer unique and well-planned experiences that won't break your bank account but never will get commoditized. As some one recently told me, "the foundation of a democracy is that the electorate get what they deserve".

I will let you be the judge for your travel experiences but at ROAM, we think you deserve the best.

Family Travel is Not a Dirty Word

2011-07-08T00:01:00.000-07:00

No rant needed from me this week as I think this letter from one of our guests speaks volumes about why families should travel and in particular with us :)

Dear Brian

We have been back for a few weeks and we've been re-living all the great moments. Unfortunately, we only have 2000 photos so we have to go by memory for some things! Now that life is finally settling back down, I've had a chance to get the photos organized and pull this package together for you. Where to start...

First - Thanks for organizing the trip, arranging Ashley to be our guide (and allowing us to become like a volunteer marketing team for ROAM)

Second- Prior to this trip, if we asked our kids for their idea of a perfect vacation the answer would always involve some combination of Mickey Mouse and a Mexican beach (with a swim up bar). Now they want adventures! This is excellent.

Third - You have created a great family-friendly program for us. If you are not marketing this aggressively, I'd say you should be. For sure, you are more than welcome to use any or all of our pictures on your website, in brochures...whatever you like. We had a series of experiences that kept surprising us. The trip truly exceeded all expectations. At the start of each day, we'd say that we didn't know how we'd be able to top the amazing things we saw and did the day before. Then over dinner each night, we were honestly able to say we had indeed raised the bar again.

Fourth - How are we supposed to improve on swimming with sea lions, hiking in Vulcan Chico, soaking in hotsprings in the Andes, rafting the headwaters of the Amazon, snorkeling with sharks, rays and turtles, watching dolphins dancing on our bow wake in the moonlight, looking for bugs on night hikes, seeing marine iguanas on the beach where we were building sand castles, riding horses amongst volcanoes and glaciers, seeing giant tortoises, watching boobies dive all around the boat, standing on the equator, seeing a baby hammerhead swim circles around the boat, staying in haciendas and jungle lodges, and sleeping on deck so sea lions could wake us up. We've been ruined!

Fifth - What a treat to meet your crew, Ashley, Juan Fernando and Arturo as they are all EXCELLENT - great people and great fun. You were right that we would love Ashley. She was perfect in everyway and went way beyond the call of duty to be sure the kids and adults were having a wonderful time.

Sixth - Visiting the Ecuadorian mainland is totally under-rated experience. It should be on the world's top ten list. The people are spectacular, the scenery is unbelieveable, the food was great, the price was right and its not touristy. We were so focused on the Galapagos that we had not spent much time anticipating the second part of our amazing trip. It was fantastic.

Seventh - It woudln't have been an adventure if Harry hadn't fallen off a horse, Catharine hadn't fallen off a bike, Elizabeth Anne hadn't been bitten by a dog and I had not broken a toe (I think) as it is not as straight as it used to be. Those were some of the memorable moments. Very cool to say " I fell off a horse in Ecuador"

Eighth - It was fun to see places that we remembered from the website and your daughter's photo album. It was not hard to imagine you and the girls chilling out on the beach at Isabela. In fact, it wouldn't be hard to relocate to Isabela! But Beto's margaritas (especially the second one) should come with a warning label.

Ninth - we appreciated all your help and intimate knowledge about the areas. It was great to get advice from a parent's perspective as well as your naturally adventurous side

Tenth - We are looking forward to planning our next ROAM Vacation

Thanks
The Armstrong Clan
Bob, Elizabeth-Anne, Harry, Alison and Cookie

Ecuafriendly was anything but...

2011-03-08T07:42:00.000-08:00

I recently went online to book a last-minute beach getaway in Western Ecuador. I am very familiar with the region as ROAM, does a lot of multisport and surf safari business there. However, in an effort to completely avoid work, I decided to rent a house on the beach nearby one of Ecuador’s more popular surf destinations, Montanita.

Montanita is probably not a place I would likely take my travelers as it is a little on the skanky side but the waves are predictable and nightlife available even in low season. I googled “beach houses - Montanita” and came across the large international site VRBO, or otherwise known as Vacation Rentals By Owners. There were only a few houses listed and after a quick perusal, I inquired about a house in Olon, just north of Montanita that also had its own website. www.ecuafriendly.com

The advertisement stated it was a luxurious 5 star, 3-bedroom/3-bath premium house within a gated community of 6 homes complete with concierge. I spoke with the owner, Todd Hebert who runs Ecuafriendly.com with his wife, Leigh Frost. The website is extremely vague and I should have been alarmed when I could not get a straight answer as to whether the house was on the beach. It's really not a complicated question. They finally succumbed and told me it was on the beach. Of course it turns out it wasn’t.

I received a nightly quote for $40 per couple for a bed & breakfast package or $125 per night for the house. With three bedrooms I told Todd that does not make sense as it would be cheaper for us to have them make us breakfast every day? The Ecuafriendly website stated if we booked in the next 2 weeks there would be a 20 percent discount and rates start as low as $75 per night. However the reality was a higher “Thanksgiving Rate”. Thanksgiving apparently is huge in Ecuador.

Regardless, I figured $125 for a luxury house still seemed really inexpensive and I booked and paid by PayPal. My “spidey senses” should have been tingling as “luxury”, “premium”, "five star " and “$125 per night” should not ever be in the same sentence. This continues to hold true. However, at the time when planning my escape after a busy season, I seemed unaware. Ironically and ashamedly, some subconscious prejudice made me think that booking through an American in Ecuador rather than local from South America would make the sight-unseen more legitimate. Sadly, and not unlike most predisposed prejudices, this proved to be false. This gringo, Mr Hebert, was well practiced in the art of deception.

Real view from house

Both the VRBO site and their own website stated a number of things that proved to be false and omitted important information such as the major construction across the street starting early in the morning thus making sitting outside on the deck intolerable.

1. The house was spartan with the exception of a dozen plastic deck chairs one might buy from a bin at Home Depot. The remaining furnishings looked like items from a Howard Johnson's used furniture auction

2. Gated Community with 24/7 surveillance connotes a certain image to North Americans. They had a squeaky metal gate that was wedged half open but not enough to get a taxi through.

3. Concierge – their idea of a 24-hour concierge was a nice young fellow named Oswaldo, who could sell you marijuana or fresh oysters. Oswaldo was also the security guard and landscaper.

4. View property on the beach. Their website shows balcony shots from what we learned to be his brother-in-laws house. The house we booked was perpendicular to the water and behind three other homes. It did have a great view of the construction site.

5. Tennis Court – it was an abandoned court that had not be resurfaced since Miami Vice went off air, had no net and 3 foot weeds.

6. One set of polyester blend linens that were clean but showed old soil marks. There was a hodge-podge of ratty towels and not enough for three rooms so we went out and bought some of our own.

7. Laundry facilities – the owners came by to use the washer daily but took the soap with them each time. There were no dials, just a set of pliers so you would guess the settings. The dryer was good for a serious shock if you were at all damp.

8. Hot water or water in general – we were without power for the first two afternoons until we realized the owners were turning of the main circuit during the day (after they did laundry) to save costs.

9. Indigenous artwork was advertised. The house had one Ecuadorian blanket hung with poster pins and a Canadian Maple Leaf shaped mirror with key hooks. I loved the "Canadiana" touch but do not think a Niagara Falls souvenir from 1974 falls into the Ecuadorian indigenous art category.

Despite all this, and false claims about daily garbage removal (we had our garbage for 11 days) we didn’t care…until the panties went missing…

Let me explain.

On our 5^th day at the rental, the owner Todd came by with an additional invoice for me. He claimed that the price he quoted was for three guests not the six that were staying there. Todd was adamant that we owed him an additional $320 for the 5^th and 6^th person. He's clearly not a mathematician. I told him that the amount was not an issue but my understanding was we rented the entire house, which is advertised as sleeping 8 plus. I am not sure where the “plus” people would go but nonetheless there had been no indication at any time that there were per person rates or constraints. When I showed him his own correspondence confirming 6 guests (he organized our transport) he broke into vulgarities that are not fit for print and told us to pay up or leave.

We think the hostility may have arisen from us booking our own return transportation back to the airport (at less than half the price Todd charged us coming in) although we are not exactly sure. Realizing we had little more than a receipt from Paypal, we reluctantly paid him the 320 dollars. I told him that this kind of extortion was short-sighted but he marched off screaming profanities and told us he didn’t need our business.

Then things got weird.

Up until then we had been leaving the house unlocked but figured that anyone who would treat his customers in such a manner might go further. It was an outrageous and unprovoked outbreak, which defies all common sense as I am a 6’5” large man and one of my guests was even bigger. Oddly enough, that night I received an email from Todd asking me to give my word not to “destroy, sabotage or steal anything from the house”. This man had insulted us on many levels, extorted us and now is suggesting I might trash his house?

Todd and his wife spent the next three days watching the house from lawn chairs across the road. They stopped coming over to do laundry but on our last night, while dining in Montanita, we came home and realized that some one had been in the locked house. Items had been moved around but nothing seemed to be missing. The safe had been opened (by key) but all my papers were in order and my money was stashed elsewhere. The next day all three women realized their panties were gone. Co-incidence, I do not think so?

For me, as a travel professional, this kind of last-minute extortion is alarming. I am a seasoned traveler and more than capable of handling even the most outrageous situation. We simply paid the $320 as we did not want a trivial amount of money to ruin our getaway. I suspect Todd needed it more than we did. Even more now than ever, I can see the value in our ROAM trips as we do our homework on destinations, provide reliable networks and services and hold ourselves accountable to our loyal guests.

If you have an opportunity to visit Ecuador, I would highly recommend it. It's a wonderful country with delightful, friendly locals. However, here's a few things to learn from our horrible experience:

1. Book through a reputable agency that personally knows the homes or properties.

2. Do not pay by PayPal. Use a credit card so you have some sort of recourse.

3. Do not assume VRBO does any vetting of the properties. If they are listed it is only because they pay to be there.

4. Consider it a red flag if the house does not allow customer feedback. The people at Ecuafriendly had lots of positive quotes on their own website but no way to post experience on the VRBO site. This is a likely sign that they have had issues

5. Doing it yourself is definitely cheaper but runs greater risk and there is no form of recourse for false advertisers like the people at Ecuafriendly. Consider the fact we were tricked into a 25% premium so be ready for surprises like buying your own towels, sheets etc…and factor this into your decision making

6. Get answers in writing – for example whether the house is on the beach or not? Still take every thing the write with a grain of salt as in many cases like ours, they cannot be held accountable. If it’s too good to be true it probably isn’t

7. Ask if there is construction or renovations going on or pets (we’ve heard horror stories about neighbors dogs). The house we rented was also being shown by realtors while we were there.

8. Ask for them to outline EXACTLY what the rate INCLUDES and equally important, EXCLUDES as we got a cleaning charge added to our invoice before we arrived.

9. Hide your underwear when you leave the house

10. Avoid Todd Hebert, Leigh Frost and the company Ecuafriendly as they even have bogus stuff on their website about children's foundations and the only true claim on their website was they had granite counter tops. The stove doesn’t light and the coffee maker is broken but the counter tops looked like granite

Being Chuck

2011-01-24T11:16:00.000-08:00

Over the last 2 years a very strange phenomenon has been occurring. It's not something totally foreign to me as it was pointed by my grandmother 20 years ago, however, it has resurfaced with a vengeance. It's not something I embraced initially but I have begun to understand it better over time.

Apparently I look like Chuck Norris...

I couldn't be lucky enough to look like Brad Pitt or George Clooney. No, instead it's the martial arts movie man also known as Walker, Texas Ranger. I would have been OK with it if it stopped at a cameo fight appearance in "Return of the Dragon" or B-grade cult classic "Delta Force" but really...Texas Ranger?

Don't even get me started about "Lone Wolf McQuade"

As stated earlier, almost 2 decades ago I was visiting my grandmother donning a beard (me, not my grandmother) when she told me to shave as I looked like that "hoodlum" Chuck Norris. The reference didn't sink in nor did I really see the resemblance at that time but I was impressed grandma even knew who Chuck was. I once was accused of looking like the Honeycomb Kid (on the cereal box) but Chuck is a lot shorter and a frankly older than yours truly.

In 2009, it reared its ugly head again - in a diner in Kamloops, British Columbia. Predominantly a mill town, the diner was a place where it was plausible the patrons owned Chuck Norris VHS box sets. Our waitress told me her co-workers thought I looked like Chuck Norris. Without hesitation, and for those who know me you will not be surprised, I told her I was Chuck Norris. She fist pumped and enthusiastically shouted "I knew it". After signing a menu for the diner wall, we enjoyed our complimentary meal and left the restaurant with a good chuckle.

Perhaps knowing that you look like Chuck Norris leads one to carry his subconscious persona? Nah just kidding... but the recognition did start to escalate soon after as Ashley and I made our way to Africa to run the Zambezi and climb Kilimanjaro. In our first airport, a few security people joked that I looked like Chuck and we moved through unencumbered. It wasn't until Victoria Falls trying to catch a charter flight to Hwange National Park that dividends stared to flow. We had recovered the lost bags of another guest and were trying to get the overweight load through a backlog at the check-in desk.

I was told that one bag was allowed and there were no exceptions. I tried to explain the additional bags belonged to a 70-year old woman but was not making headway. This is when "Being Chuck" became very helpful. One of the intervening supervisors was convinced I had traveled with them before. I assured him that I had not but was scouting the region for future business. He was persistent and asked me why I looked so familiar? Seizing the opportunity, I told him I was Chuck Norris, Texas Ranger and reached across the counter with a firm handshake.

He was so pleased to have a Chuck flying with his airline that we were escorted past security and straight out on to the tarmac. The excess bag issues were as far behind us as the rest of the tourists waiting in the massive line up. Being Chuck certainly had some advantages (although I'd still rather look like George Clooney).

Two weeks later on Kilimanjaro, the porters would fight each morning over who would carry my bags. We also noticed our tent was pitched in prime locations at every camp. I realized that this could present a problem for our paying guests and tried to get our lead trekking guide, Festo, to break it to them gently that I was not Chuck Norris. The porters refused to believe him as they had been bragging to other groups of porters and would not retreat. The word is that Chuck Norris films and shows are the rage these days on buses in Zimbabwe. Who knew?

Later in early 2010, I was also identified as Chuck when traveling through Argentina. We became further beneficiaries by not being hassled in markets or late-night on the streets Buenos Aires as well as special treatment in hotels, restaurants and shops. New arrivals to our Futaleufu trip were skeptical of our claims until they all received 25% off their purchases at a local leather shop.

In Mendoza, I made a comment to Ashley about a group of men who were ogling her in high heels and shorts as we were headed out for dinner. Much to both of our surprise, they yelled "Hey Chuck" and were all very pleased when I waved in acknowledgment (Ashley also wishes I looked like George Clooney or Brad Pitt!). That aside, the ultimate success in this phenomenon was when I missed a connection in Buenos Aires recently. The nice folks at American Airlines rescheduled me on a Miami flight a few hours later but warned me it was oversold and unlikely I would get on. When asked if I get told I look like Chuck Norris, I said I was Chuck. Despite having a Canadian passport with my name on it, I was immediately confirmed and upgraded.

The benefits of Being Chuck are growing everyday. So much... I feel obligated to purchase a Total Gym in Chuck's honour. With no assembly required, easy storage, convenient payment plans and a money back guarantee how could I go wrong?

Cheers,
Canuck Norris

2010-10-17T10:58:00.000-07:00

Follow the Leaders

Its mid-October and the North American adventure season wrapped up since the first of the month. Our final trip of the season could not have been better. We were treated to the largest salmon run on the Chilko River in 98 years, fantastic weather and exceptional bear viewings at Chilko Lake. We watched sows and cubs at close range while our Bears & Whales trip the week prior witnessed a super-pod of more than 60 Orcas.

During the trips the guides are often asked what we do in the off season. Simply put, I would say "more of the same"

Ashley is updating photos on our Facebook site but hiking with Eddy and riding daily. Amy and Niels are surfing in Tofino (Amy cracked her head and got six stitches last week) while Niels was editing his Cotahuasi video. I prefer warmer water so I am working out details for an upcoming Ecuador surfing safari and a new Mexico mainland surf trip.

Mark and Penny are walking the dogs and tuning skis for this winter. Jorge is off climbing Kilimanjaro then paddling in Bhutan before heading to Futaleufu. Chef Cristian is eating at Burger King before heading to gym while Liam is driving a fleet of kayaks to the Baja before joining Brian and Ashley in Ecuador. Josslyn is in New York trying to be discovered by music agents while Chef Nicole is busy catching up with her crazy Frenchman, Jonathon, and shredding the valley's single track on mountain bike.

The other reality is paperwork... lots and lots of paperwork. ( I do not know how you guys do it all year!). British Columbia was blessed with a new tax for adventure travel. Its called the HST which has thrown another wrench into doing business in BC. That's another post altogether so don't let me get me started...

Roadblocks and Ruins: Adventures in Peru

2009-06-22T21:30:00.000-07:00

By: Tamar Glouberman

When Brian asked me to price out flights to Lima, I was pretty excited. After all, who wouldn’t want their boss to send them on a last minute trip to Peru? Especially when the trip involves trekking the little-known Salkantay Trail, which passes by spectacular glaciers, emerald green lakes, and cloud forests on the way to Peru’s most famous sight: Machu Picchu. But I’d be lying if I said a small part of me wasn’t disheartened. You see, the first trip I worked for ROAM began with a rappel down a 100’ waterfall, and that was only the beginning of the excitement. In my trips and years that followed at ROAM I often experienced a lack of sleep and a lack of showers, but never a lack of adventure. Now I was faced with a trip that would entail several days of walking interrupted by stays at luxury backcountry lodges. A nice vacation definitely, but a ROAM style adventure? I wasn’t sure. It all seemed so easy. Was ROAM getting too soft?

I needn’t have worried.

I arrived in Cusco on a Sunday, and was contacted by Miguel, our Peruvian guide, who informed me the farmers in the Sacred Valley were planning a strike. He said if we left early Monday morning – after the guests had arrived – we’d have time to see most of the sights on the itinerary for that day, plus squeeze in a visit to the ruins of Ollyantaytambo. We’d then spend Tuesday close to the hotel and by Wednesday, the strike would be over, allowing us to return to Cusco before starting our trek on Thursday morning. The plan seemed simple enough.

Monday morning: the plane the guests were booked on was canceled.

When they arrived, several hours late, we hit the road and saw some great stuff, but we were too late to drive to Ollyantaytambo. So, after the strike began on Tuesday morning, we walked there. The 8 km stroll proved to be an interesting way to see the Sacred Valley, as well as a good introductory lesson in rustic road block construction. Ollyantaytambo is a pretty little town, and the surrounding ruins were almost deserted due to the strike. Walking back to the hotel late that afternoon, we marveled at how much the roadblocks had grown, and wondered how they would be cleared by the next morning.

They weren’t. However, we were told the roads would probably be cleared by the afternoon. We went for a hike.

When we returned, the roads were still blocked. We enjoyed a leisurely late-lunch. Later, after the guests had left the dining room, Miguel and I had a chat. Phone calls ensued. By nightfall, Hector arrived. Hector is a driver who won’t soon be forgotten. He made our soccer-mom-style mini-van seem like the Batmobile. As we snuck through alleys with the headlights off, I wondered if, perhaps, I’d been overly insistent on leaving. Perhaps another night at our luxurious and safe hotel wouldn’t have been such a bad option. But soon, we were caught up in the excitement of last second swerving around rock piles. We crossed a bridge mainly used for pedestrians, barely fitting under the maximum height bar, and blatantly pretending not to notice the maximum weight sign.

We twisted our way up unpaved mountain roads, stopping for the rare vehicle traveling in the opposite direction, so that the drivers could inform each other of what was in store. We met a frantic family – strikers had hurled rocks at their car. They warned us not to continue, but we did, assuring them they would encounter no such problems going the other way. We passed through the area they had warned us about without incident and continued on for quite a distance, until we arrived at a roadblock that couldn’t be swerved around. In seconds we were out of the van, enthusiastically rolling boulders. I should add that, based on what little information we had, we actually agreed with the farmers - who recently lost their rights to free water - but sometimes, the excitement of adventure gets in the way of politics. Then we heard voices. People were yelling at us from the shadows. My knowledge of the Quechua language consists of less than a dozen words, but even I could tell they were threatening us. We quickly piled back into the van, having cleared enough rocks for Hector to navigate through. The yelling continued. Hector stopped and stuck his head out the window. I don’t know what he said, but the yelling ceased and no rocks were thrown.

The following day we trekked to the first lodge. As the views changed from the patchwork of farmlands to the glaciers of Humantay and Salkantay, we saw the lodge nestled in a beautiful valley. The staff greeted us with mugs of coca tea. Locals say the tea helps with altitude sickness. I don’t know whether or not that’s true, but we all drank it and no one got sick. After our tea we had a lesson in Pisco Sour making. It’s the most popular cocktail in Peru and that combined with a hot tub and the high altitude can make stiff muscles, or most any other problem, quickly disappear.

We were at 12 700’. The plan was to spend two nights at that lodge adjusting to the altitude. During our acclimatization period we hiked to a beautiful turquoise lake at the foot of the Humantay Glacier. From there we left the trail behind, hiking up to a nearby ridge with an incredible view. I’ve been spoiled in my life when it comes to beautiful alpine scenery, but I was still awed by the rugged splendor that surrounded us.

We rose early the next morning. I don’t know how many hours it took, but it seemed like every turn was more beautiful. We came around a corner and Miguel pointed up the trail to the left, where we could see almost to the highest point. He then suggested we hike up to our right. Always ready for a bit of off-trail adventure, we agreed. After a steep climb and a scramble along the rather sharp ridgeline we reached a point where we could see the main trail again, which was when we realized we were looking down at the highest point on the pass. After all the worry about getting to 15,300’, we’d surpassed it without even realizing it. We built celebrational cairns and took photos until some bad weather started closing in on us. There’s something great about being high up in the Andes, off the trail, and being sleeted on. I’ve never seen or read Alive, but I still found myself thinking about it.

We made it down to the trail, took some photos at a sign marking the altitude and started back down. An hour later, we were happily eating wine-poached pears by the side of the trail.

The following days took us through several incredible bio-zones. Along the way we heard of another strike being planned. We were told it wouldn’t affect us and we carried on. On the last day of the trek, we hiked the Llactapata Trail. From a high point on the trail we caught our first glimpse of Machu Picchu – it was incredible. After that our plan was to hike to the valley and take a half hour train ride to Aguas Caliente - the town at the base of Machu Picchu. We were enjoying a leisurely descent down the steep mountainside, when Freddy, the assistant chef, met us with news: the strike was starting a day early. The train would not be running. We’d have to walk the rest of the way. We picked up the pace.

During the trip, Jeff, Tammy, Louise and I had spoken about how great it was to trek the Salkantay Trail as opposed to the Inca Trail. The Salkantay has a broader range of scenery, gets you higher up, and while 500 people a day start off on the Inca Trail, on the Salkantay we only saw a handful of other trekkers. To us, the only advantage of the Inca Trail, was the fact that you could walk right to Machu Picchu, instead of having to take a train for the last leg. And now here we were walking to Aguas Caliente - not quite Machu Picchu, but close enough. We arrived in the dark, with tired feet and grinning faces.

Machu Picchu was more incredible than I ever expected. It was relatively quiet due to the strike and we got to hike Waynapichu – the mountain that looms over Machu Picchu. It’s a special hike; up steep stairs the Incas built hundreds of years ago –long before there was any kind of building code regulating stair height. As I took in the spectacular view, it occurred to me and that even with trailside poached pears and nightly chocolates on our pillows, this ROAM trip had once again proved to be a real adventure.

To see a photo album of this trip, click here

Other Recent ROAM Trips In Brief

This Spring saw several exciting trips to Ecuador and the Galapagos; lots of good biking, hiking, surfing and snorkeling with sea lions, turtles and sharks. Brian led ROAM’s inaugural Route of the Sun trip along Ecuador’s coast. Many of the participants say they enjoyed it even more than the Galapagos. I haven’t done that exact trip, but I did love spending time on the Ecuador coast; people are friendly and the combination of warm water, beach breaks and no crowds, makes for a great place to learn to surf.

The river trip season is off to a good start: everyone had a great time on the year’s first Chilko trip. Due to high water, our regular take-out no longer had an eddy, so Brian found a new take-out. This new spot led to Mark practicing his row-like-hell skills (luckily after so many Klinaklini trips those skills are solid), and to Brian practicing his backing-a-heavy-trailer-down-a-steep-hill-in-a-full-skid skills (those skills also proved to be solid as ever.)
As I write this we have trips out on the Firth and a Chilko and there are a whole variety of trips planned for the summer, so check back here soon for more ROAM news.

New trips in Central and South America

2009-01-30T13:59:00.002-08:00

Greetings from a very snowy British Columbia. As I dig out my truck to get to the ski hill, one cannot help think about warmer climates.

I truly love this winter wonderland but you didn't see Bing Crosby doing any snow shoveling in "White Christmas" did you?

As a member of ROAM and The Lodge's on-line community, below are some trips that we are offering before many are posted to the website:

Route of The Sun (West Coast of Ecuador)
This new exploration visits rural coastlines, national parks, haciendas, and eco-lodges. Surfing (for beginners or expert), hiking, riding and snorkeling compliment a number of archaeological sites and cultural visits. For some this will be the ultimate surfing safari while non-surfers will have plenty of adventure and cultural visits. Our inaugural trip has already sold out so we have added another (May 2-10 departure).

This trip will take participants to Chirije, where ROAM is in the process of partnering to develop a traditional "safari-style" lodge on the shores of the Pacific. Complete with it's own Smithsonian Archaeological dig, Chirije is an amazing place only accessed at low tide yet close enough to service all the great surfing spots, including our very own beach break.

The West Coast of Ecuador is little traveled an reminds me of Mexico 30 years ago before tourism exploded. Exploded, is not a word often associated with positive things unless, I suppose, you are reading porn or swinging at a pinata. Nonetheless, I think the friendly people of Manabi Province will be well-suited for tourism and I hope they learn from others mistakes. The area is charming and laid back as many visitors never make it this far west. A coastal visit magnificently contrasts the Andes and it is simply a matter of time before the coast is "found". The word "found" in itself suggests it needed to be, and in this case, I am not so sure they did.

Baja Multisport
This lodge-to-lodge trip is an off-the-beaten-path adventure that visits both the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean coastlines. Participants experience Baja’s stark geography and world famous biodiversity through a multitude of outdoor adventures such as hiking, sea kayaking, surfing and snorkeling. There are also some cultural town visits and options for diving, fishing and horseback riding.

Spring & Fall 2009 April 5- 11, 12-18, Sept 6-12, Oct 11-17, Nov 22-28, Dec 20-26, Dec 26 – 1 Jan, 2010 $2995 per person

Our trip focuses on some of the quieter areas of the peninsula while maintaining a high quality of experience with outstanding lodging. The trip fits perfectly into a business week and is easily accessed from most North American cities.

The Sea of Cortez is a phenomenal place to kayak and hike. The weather is outstanding and the people friendly. Our surfing options are suitable for all ability levels and the snorkeling is superb. As on all ROAM trips, there are many optional available for those who might not wish to participate in a specific event.

Galapagos Multisport - Now Available Year round!
The most adventurous way to see Galapagos just got better. From March 1st, 2009 and beyond we are offering weekly departures to this incredible destination. Guests can book as individuals or you can charter the catamaran for your own group.

We only require two travelers to guarantee the departure (outside of 90 days) so you can focus on planning for snorkeling, biking, hiking, kayaking, riding and even surfing your way through the archipelago. Be careful when you price compare as our trips are for small groups (no waiting), include sailing, meals, all the activities, full-time naturalist guide, round trip airfare from Quito to islands and even your hotel in Quito before and after the trip.

In these economic times, we are seeing a number of blow out cruise deals popping up on the internet. Blow -out falls into the same category of "explode". These deals are usually on cruise ships or GAP trips with hordes of people and do not include any of the great side trips we do.

On Isabela, for example, the most spectacular site to visit is the Tunnels. A crazy labyrinth of lava arches connected by snorkel routes, the "Tunnels" can only be accessed by panga.
Evenings on the cat are spent lounging on the back deck while rays, sea lions and all manner of bird life entertain us just feet away. Many times, while sailing, we are joined by a school of dolphin so we drop sail and go swimming with them. You cannot do that on a cruise ship unless you evoke the "man overboard drill".

Who ever you travel with, make sure you are going to the right places in Galapagos rather than following the crowds. It's a truly inspirational place and worth the investment to visit.

Snowsports

2008-12-01T17:49:00.000-08:00

By popular demand, ROAM is adding a number of ski and snowboard packages into our quiver of trips. Our head office is surrounded by incredible ski terrain, so it seems like a natural thing to do. Trips range from reasonably priced getaways to ridiculously decadent affairs for 2010 and beyond...

Red, White and Blue:
Enjoy 3 days of interior British Columbia’s best lift-serviced powder skiing at Nelson’s Whitewater Ski Area and Rossland’s Red Mountain followed by a 4th day challenging your skills with a glorious day of cat skiing.
Price: $1295 based on double occupancy, Nelson, BC

H2Snow
Join long-time ROAM trip leader guide, Mark Trueman for an introductory day at Nelson’s Whitewater ski area followed by 3 days of cat skiing our fresh interior champagne powder.
Price: $2595 from Spokane, Washington or Cranbrook, BC

Northern BC Heli-Skiing - Feb 27 to March 2, 2009
Join ROAM founder, Brian McCutcheon for three outrageous days of powder skiing in Northern B.C.”s snow zone. With annual falls often exceeding, 100 feet, our late February trip will be guaranteed exciting skiing. 7-passenger Koala helicopters will whisk around and three days of skiing guarantees 43,000 vertical feet.
Price: $4700 plus taxes from Vancouver, BC

Heli-Ski Chilko Lake (2010)
Some of you may have lost this much in a week of bad trading so why not indulge in a venture that generates fond memories! Arguably Canada’s most decadent and adventurous skiing experience, groups of up to 8 skiers will enjoy a week of heli-skiing based out of our luxurious Lodge at Chilko Lake. Each morning you will be whisked from our front lawn to ski in the Pantheon Ranges just west of Chilko Lake. This is some of the country’s best terrain and is available on an exclusive charter basis only through ROAM.
Price: $130,000 plus tax from Vancouver (for 8 skiers)

Adventure By Design
Join the growing numbers of happy customers and have ROAM customize your next adventure, family reunion, holiday or corporate retreat. In just the last week we’ve customized trips to Peru, Africa, BC and Utah. Call Brian for a free consultation and take advantage of our connections and longevity in the business.

Latin America Specials

2008-11-20T15:15:00.000-08:00

I hate to use the blog as a place to promote specials. That being said, the U.S. Thanksgiving is looming and I need to let people know what's going on. I am virtually brain-dead from this past season (actually it's more from listeneing to the never-ending primaries and then the election) and our web designer, Tony, is about three weeks behind on producing an e-flyer. With my apologies taken care of in advance, we really do have some exciting stuff ahead for this winter...

Galapagos
Now with two catamarans ROAM-ing the archipelago, we have twice as many ways to serve you. Both vessels visit multiple islands and National Park sites and our trip pricing includes pre and post hotels in Quito as well as airfare to the islands. Our 50-foot, 8 passenger, cat is operating the port-to-port multisport adventures while the spacious 88-footer sleeps 12 guests and offers a remote naturalist sailing with 2 daily landings for hiking and snorkeling. There are only a few spaces left in February and one trip reamaining in March

Last minute space
4 spaces on Naturalist sailing – Feb 7th
1 space on Multisport – Feb 14th
2 spaces on Multisport – Feb 21st
10 spaces on Naturalist sailing March 7th

Ecuador Multi-sport
A fantastic multi-sport adventure on its own, this trip dovetails perfectly with our Galapagos sailings. Visit volcanoes, glaciers, tropical forests and jungle all in one exciting week of adventure. Mountain bike, hike, river raft, horseback ride and trek through a cultural odyssey of environments knowing you’ll be staying in hip haciendas and cool jungle lodges at day’s end.

Ecuador West Coast Exploratory
Join Brian McCutcheon for an exploratory trip of the West Coast of Ecuador. Flying from Quito to Manta we will hike, bike, ride, snorkel and surf (no experience required) our way around the coast as we put together new programs and investigate ROAM’s potential purchase of a 500-acre beachfront property and eco-lodge.

April 25 – May 03, 2009
Call Brian toll free at 888 639 1114 for details

Peru
Rated as the best ROAM trip ever by a number of reliable, if not slightly crazy (according to trip reports) past guests, our Peru expedition incorporates the only trans- Andean lodge-to-lodge trek to Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley and a unique sea kayaking adventure on Lake Titicaca. Next launch May 17, 2009. Contact Brian for the details and get your space on this 12-person trip. Or let us customize your own adventure

Roger's Waters

2008-03-03T11:05:00.000-08:00

This past June we had the pleasure of hosting Roger Waters and his production manager, Trip (aptly named), for 3 glorious days of trout fishing on the Chilko River. A legendary rock celebrity from the band, Pink Floyd, Roger arrived by A-Star helicopter after his concert in Vancouver. I am not the type to be star-struck but was the first to admit it was all quite surreal - as my favourite song as a youth was "Wish You Were Here".

(For the record, and contrary to rumour, I did not try and force Roger to listen to my acoustic version! I felt his three refusals and threats of a restraining order were a good indication that he was reluctant to hear it).

If you have ever seen Pink Floyd or Mr. Waters in concert, you will know that they are polished and well prepared. This fishing trip was no exception. They sent up a float plane in advance for us to hop from lake to lake to cast lines and check productivity.

We had a crew of experienced guides at their disposal: Avid fisherman and Blackcomb Helicopter founder, Steve Flynn, was the lead reconnaissance and pilot/guide, Peter Nori, was the helicopter pilot extraordinaire. Local knowledge and boat handling was provided by myself and Clint Goyette of Valley Fishing Guides.

Our guests had requested peace and quiet and reserved the entire lodge accordingly. Chef Rebecca, who has cooked in Europe for many dignitaries was up to the task of orchestrating fine dining and we had our sommelier, Andy Butler, sourcing out the finest wines he could muster out of Vancouver.

Roger Waters is an accomplished fly caster and has fished throughout the world. At this time in June, most of the province was washed out (flooding) but the Chilko has the unique distinction of being B.C.'s clearest drainage and the cerulean blue waters did not disappoint. The fishing was not outstanding but good, and our guests were pleased.

The real highlight for me was listening to Roger tell stories about his 40 years in the music industry. He was charming to our staff and thanked each and everyone personally on his departure. To be candid, I hadn't heard much about Mr. Waters over the years but perhaps him being so friendly and gracious doesn't make for much in the way of People Magazine fodder?

I also realized that celebrities must love traveling to places like The Lodge at Chilko so they can just be themselves. They can spend time with their colleagues and friends and not have a camera stuck in their face.

In a way, we are as remote as "The Dark Side of the Moon". But our service is better.

The "New" Lodge at Chilko Lake

2007-11-29T16:10:00.000-08:00

ROAM is very pleased to announce our newest development at Chilko Lake.

A joint venture between ROAM and the philanthropic Huston family, the new "Lodge at Chilko Lake" is based out of an upscale private residence perched above Chilko Lake and the Chilko River

A one-hour plane ride north of Vancouver or Whistler, British Columbia, “The Lodge” is a formidable log structure with 3 luxurious suites and 5 deluxe timber frame cabins. Arguably one of British Columbia’s most spectacular settings, the lodge serves as an adventure outpost for a variety of world-class activities.

Chilko Lake, the prize jewel of B.C.’s T’sy-los Provincial Park, is in an incredible protected wilderness spanning the circumference of the 55-mile long lake. Hiking trails and mountain biking opportunities abound. This, combined with horseback riding, fishing, sea kayaking, canoeing and rock climbing makes for an unforgettable setting in a wilderness few rarely see.

For rafting enthusiasts, there are two levels of river adventures available. Lodge guests can challenge “Lava Canyon” which offers the longest stretch of commercially navigable whitewater in North America, while others may opt for an exhilarating but family-friendly stretch of rapids flowing 21 miles right from the head of the lake. This stretch is also available by drift boat and can be run late into the autumn to view grizzlies, salmon and bald eagles.

The access to Lava Canyon is extremely remote so we use a vintage 6-wheel-drive military vehicle to locate our gear. However, at the day’s end, our guests get whisked back to the hot tub by helicopter. On the upper section we use a custom-designed drift boat that is ideal for watching bears feed on the two million returning salmon

The Chilko River has been given special classification in recognition of its world-class rainbow trout fishing. Guests can fish with experienced regional guides or on their own. At the headwaters, they can launch float tubes or simply wade out into the river’s clear shallow waters. The lodge is equipped with state of the art Koffler boats and top quality fishing equipment is available to guests not wishing to bring their own.

For those interested in relaxing along with adventure, you’ll be pleased to know The Lodge has an on-site yoga instructor along with a massage therapist. Special “yoga & spa” weeks are also offered where instructors lead morning and afternoon sessions and massage therapists and acupuncture experts provide relief to tired muscles from the day’s activities. Getting a massage while watching bears catch salmon is one of our outrageous experiences you don’t get at a traditional spa.

For the epicureans, The Lodge is also a stop on a popular Wine on the River Series and in 2008 will feature cooking classes with renowned Vancouver chef, Rebecca Dawson. Ms. Dawson was better known for developing menus for the Rain Tree Restaurant in Vancouver and spent years working in Europe for the presidents of Disney and Northwest Airlines. True to its roots, in the Chilcotin no one ever eats alone as the lodge serves up extravagant family style dining in its spectacular dining room with breathtaking views.

The success of this new luxury facility is predicated on being proximal to Vancouver and Whistler but offering a completely private and exclusive experience. Previously an invitation-only private facility, The Huston's have opened up their incredible complex to ROAM guests. To access the lodge, guests can fly in on scheduled charter flights to our airstrip or utilize float plane service from downtown Vancouver or Whistler. The lodge has access to thousands upon thousands of acres of crown land and the park region making the adventure opportunities limitless.

The multi-million dollar development is well timed to take advantage of the growing interest we are seeing in British Columbia. This facility is one of the finest in Western Canada and has been completed with plenty of time for the Winter Olympics arrive to Vancouver. Unlike the rapid expansion and construction going on at Whistler, the Chilcotin countryside has not changed here since it was first plotted on a map so we are enjoying it just the way it is.

holiday@chilkolake.com

Adventure via Cyberspace

2007-05-11T22:33:00.000-07:00

After a glorious 6-year marketing stint for the legendary pioneer of river rafting, George Wendt (of O.A.R.S. fame), I have returned to the ROAM office full-time. The reality that I no longer have a plethora of talented support crew has truly sunk in. However, being lean and mean certainly does have its advantages. And besides, with Jennifer (my lovely wife of 16 years) doing all of our books now, I am under the greatest scrutiny ever when it comes to purchasing.

Our recent e-flyer has gone out through cyberspace marking an interesting era. Perhaps calling it an experiment would be a better description – an experiment we are going to watch closely. ROAM has decided to go completely electronic with our marketing and administrative materials. The main reason is the environment. Our responsible travel policy is quite simple. When you book on-line with ROAM we plant a tree at the head of Chilko Lake in your honor. No carbon offset calculations or credits, just oxygen producing green space.

The second reason is efficiency. This first e-flyer has reached 9000 of our past travelers with the click of a mouse. Yes, we still have the dilemma of figuring out how to reach those other 30,000 clients on our mailing list but we are crawling before we walk. And yes, we may need to succumb to an email gathering re-activation mailing but for the most part we are a paperless work place. As of 2007, all ROAM and The Lodge at Chilko Lake trips can be booked 24/7 on-line with live availability.

Ultimately, all this electronic automation is about keeping trip costs down and providing instant access to information. Adventure travel, especially to remote places, is not an inexpensive hobby. With rising fuel costs and the use of helicopters and bush planes to distant locales, ROAM trips are never going be for the masses. Instead we will continue to serve a small group of extraordinary people who recognize the value of a wilderness experience.

Nonetheless, simple things like not producing monster catalogs are a start. Sure enough, the environment is on everyone’s consciousness but in practice it is often another matter. Already after our first email blast, we are getting catalog requests. There's no escaping it. Perusing a coffee table catalog with a glass of your favorite Cabernet has been a rite of passage. While in turn, those responsible for producing these massive catalogs have darkly intuited how easily their readers might be turned into prey by photographs whose power insulted the intelligence and contravened any notions of free will: exotic scenes with clear skies. Readers who would have been capable of scepticism and prudence in other areas of their lives reverted back in contact with these elements to a primordial innocence and optimism. Ahhh…the good old days when marketing was just simple emotion evoking trickery.

An unnamed luxury biking company I once worked for spent in excess of 2 million dollars publishing and delivering their show-piece catalog. It was so attractive you were reluctant to thumb through its pages. Well if you consider they do about 5000 travelers a year, you can figure whom the cost is being passed off to. Back to my point. What was my point? …

Our move to electronic marketing is not self-righteous but rather practical and appropriate for ROAM. E-marketing, for the time being, provides us a viable and environmentally friendly solution. It gets you the most current information and keeps trips costs down.

That is until AOL’s (or “the like”) spam filters clog all access except through their pay per click ads. Until then, please “opt in” and we’ll keep you posted.

Wildwater, desert dreams and the Canadian inferiority complex

2007-03-27T22:25:00.000-07:00

The Chilko-Chilcotin-Fraser river corridor is one of North America’s best-kept secrets - and not for good reason.

The Chilko River features the longest stretch of commercially operated whitewater in the North America. In fact, only the Futaleufu in South America and the Klinaklini (the Chilko’s nearby cousin) in British Columbia can rival it for continuous excitement.

The Chilcotin offers a relaxed pace while it wends its way through the Chilcotin grasslands before squeezing back into some dramatic granite canyons above Big Creek. The largest rapids on the chain are on the Chilcotin as you challenge Farwell and Big John canyons before oozing out onto the massive volumes of the Fraser.

Although a handful of whitewater enthusiasts and “B Grade” movie buffs may recognize the White Mile as home to a tragic series of deaths in 1986, the Chilko has never really achieved the notoriety.

ROAM outfitted more trips in 2006 than all the other Chilko outfitters combined. This made up a massive total of approximately 300 paddlers. Yes, I said 300. Despite being a perfectly circuitous waterway - the Chilko flowing into the Chilcotin, which flows into the Fraser - the Chilko River system is still in relative obscurity.

It’s all a bit perplexing.

People wait in line for years and often decades to run a trip down the Colorado River through Grand Canyon. A little closer to the home, and often compared to the Chilko by people “in the know”, the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in Idaho sees more than 10,000 visitors annually.

The Chilko has impressive water from May through September, while the Middle Fork volumes peak for a few weeks in June. Part of the Frank Church Wilderness of No Return, touted as one of the USA’s best protected wilderness areas, the Middle Fork has lodges, airstrips and no shortage of demand.

Now that’s not to say the Middle Fork is not an amazing river trip – because it is. It offers visitors, 100 miles and 100 rapids - nothing to sneer at – not to mention hot springs, nice walks and cool native art. And the Main Salmon features warm late season waters and big volume rapids with sandy beaches. Its just that the Chilko, which is a puddle-jumper flight from Vancouver and has high water all season, has been lying quietly for three decades of commercial rafting history, waiting its proverbial turn.

Perhaps it is just part of the Canadian culture to simply ignore the fact we have one of the best river trips in the world. Or maybe we are too polite or even afraid to speak up. Not even Tourism British Columbia – who many years ago chastised me for sending them photos (from the Chilcotin) that they thought were from Arizona – has failed to recognize the significance of Chilko River or Chilko Lake for that matter. I guess they were still trying to shake the nasty Mounted Police stereotype that plagued us for years. As it turns out - the headwaters of the Chilko River has an old Mounties outpost!

So...maybe we’ll never reach our “true potential”, but I am one Canadian who is willing to speak up but just as happy to enjoy it the way it is.

The World’s Best River trip remains in the shadows…

2007-03-27T22:16:00.000-07:00

This is a great title for this entry since the Klinaklini River cuts through the heart of the Coast Mountain ranges and wraps itself around BC’s highest mountain – Mt. Waddington. Measured at more than 13,000 feet, the vertical relief from sea level to peak is extremely dramatic. Since ROAM completed a first descent of the river in 1997 and a year later pioneering commercial expeditions, the Klinaklini River remains very much in the shadows.

It could be argued that the price tag of such an adventure, $6495 US per person, makes it cost prohibitive for most but when you factor in the outlay of time and money to get to trips like the Firth, Alsek or Tatshenshini, the Klinaklini is right on par and offers incredible value. The river has better whitewater than the rivers mentioned above, equally spectacular scenery and even includes a day of heli-hiking in a location second to none. The weather is definitely more hospitable than Alaska and it is easily accessible out of Vancouver, British Columbia saving at least 2 travel days.

In nutshell, the Klinaklini has it all - big rapids (that can be walked if need be), high grizzly bear populations, moose that watch you (unaffected by our presence) from the shoreline, packs of wolves, glaciers that come straight down to the river’s edge, exciting float plane rides in and out of the river valley, a night at a remote wilderness lodge (Chilko Lake), heli-hiking on a wildflower covered plateau, campsites surrounded by waterfalls and glaciers, and last but most perplexing… no crowds. Less than 200 people have traveled down the river and we still cannot explain why?